No Unify, no mesh. Already tried setting up an exclusive SSID so it wouldn’t jump between APs (I don’t see any evidence of this happening anyway). Both dock and Remote have a static IP (from the DHCP server - is there a way to define it on the devices ?)
I’m already using the context menu on a separate key, but I would like to set the timeout on the OK/central button so that context could be long press, but quicker, as the default long press on this device is just to long compared to anything else I’ve ever tried. Example use case : Youtube App, Subscription window, long press on a video to save for watch later.
Repetition rate worked OK on the Harmony + Shield (via bluetooth/Apple TV), again this remote seems to be the outlier. Very easy to compare side by side. I can try the IR to check if it will work better. Use case example : Plex or youtube, fast forward on very long videos.
On the main page, with Home Assistant switches, you have two options - click on the icon and trigger it immediately or click on the text, and you get to a secondary screen where you can trigger the switch. I would love to have this secondary (confirmation) screen as an option for icons in activities to avoid ghost/error activations.
I’m constantly hit by “Unable to connect to dock”, “Service unavailable” and similar messaged for random amounts of time after trying to wake up the remote from sleep. […] Would the"Keep wifi on standby" option solve this ? Will it be made available again ?
It should at least reduce the time you have to wait to not get these error after the remote wakes up. Integrations still have to reconnect with this options but this is usually quite fast compared to reconnecting to the WiFi network.
I think once the bug is solved by the 3rd party wifi chip vendor this option should be available again. I’m still not sure why they completly removed this option on the R3. Maybe it has other R3 only side effects.
Long press duration
The time it takes to trigger a long press command mapped with the configurator can not be changed.
Key Repetition Rate
Check if you have mapped a different command to the same button for long press. This will prevent the remote from sending the short press command continiously.
It is still is a bit slower compared to a Harmony because like with long press also the time between different key presses is longer compared to a Harmony. This has been discussed in this issue on GitHub: Send IR commands continously when a button is held down. · Issue #157 · unfoldedcircle/feature-and-bug-tracker · GitHub
Infrared - is the dock sending the infrared at full strength ?
If it doesn’t even makes a difference if you connect the bigger blaster (not the small extenders) to the dock then I would contact UC. I can reach all devices in my room with this setup. Even the ones that are in a very big angle from the position of the dock + blaster. You can also try to see the ir emitting signal with a smartphone that doesn’t have an ir-filter and compare it with the Harmony Hub.
I would love to have this secondary (confirmation) screen as an option for icons in activities to avoid ghost/error activations.
This is not possible. Text/Icon widgets a.k.a. soft buttons on activity pages always trigger the command directly. In the original feature request for long press commands someone asked about a long press options for these soft buttons that should have a similar effect if you don’t map anything for short press. Quote from Marton on that: “Cannot promise, will look into it.” ([feature request] Long & double press support for button mappings · Issue #94 · unfoldedcircle/feature-and-bug-tracker · GitHub)
But it could be a nice improvement. Feel free to create feature requests on GitHub for your most needed features.
We’re working on this. Currently testing a possible fix. Once it’s verified it will be available via software update.
Not possible to adjust at the moment. Could be something we could take a look in the future.
If you’re using network based integrations, the repetition also depends on how fast the device acknowledges the command. Until the command is being executed we won’t send another one to the device.
Please share more information. Is this happening with self learned codes, PRONTO codes from the internet or codes from our IR database? Which exact output are you using on the dock? What is the software version of the remote and the dock?
@kennymc.c thanks for the links and inputs. I’m going to follow up asap.
Awesome. This is by far the main usability problem with the remote. Until this is fixed I won’t be able to get rid of the Harmony! Please enable it ASAP even if buggy
I’ll try it out with IR and check if it’s any better.
Builtin commands for an LG OLED and a Denon AVR.
Dock is at version 0.6.0
Remote is at version 2.5.4
Only way I made it work was with one of the IR blasters (the largest one) hanging right below the TV it still fails to reach the AVR. Granted its not in direct line of sight, but the harmony dock (located in the same angle as the unfolded one) blasts the entire room and it gets reflected back to the AVR. Unfortunately I don’t have any device with unfiltered infrared capability to figure out what’s going on. Will try to find one to debug this further.
Out of curiosity I took my old DSLR camera to find out if was capable of capuring the ir spectrum. My testings proved my previous observations that the ir blaster has a much more brighter ir strengh than the dock ring led.
It tried it with both internal codes (Samsung Generic TV) and some learned PRONTO codes from Global Caché. I also tried to only use the dock or external output in the settings when testing the internal codes. But all with the same result. I don’t think this is normal or expected?
Not sure if this is specific to my set up but figured I’d share what I found in case it helps someone out. I think the connection issue on wake up is also a power supply issue. Here is what I’ve seen:
Had the R2 and Dock for over a year. In the beginning, constantly had the Red Error Message saying can’t connect to the dock when I would pick up the remote. To the point it was basically unusable and never something I could have the family start using. It was basically just a fun toy for me to play around with.
They released the Keep WiFi Connected During Standby feature and it was significantly better!! Basically became a usable remote. But I found the R2 Dock would still loose connection every week or two and I would have to plug/unplug the Ethernet cable to either run on WiFi or Ethernet for the next week or two until it lost connection again. It’s been that way for the last 6mos or so. Still not ready for prime time with the family but close.
I received the R3 Dock for use with the R2 a few weeks ago. It worked perfectly. No connection issues and thought I finally had a fully baked remote. Then, a few days ago, it just stopped working. I tried the plug/unplug approach like the R2 Dock but it would work for maybe 5min then disconnect again. Completely unusable.
Marton suggested on Discord it may be a power supply issue. I guess the R3 Dock has different requirements than the R2 Dock. I was using the power brick that came with my iPad Pro which seemed like it would be more than enough but I guess not. So I switched to the USB C brick that came with my MacBook Pro figuring that’s the most powerful brick you can use. It worked for a bit then disconnected again.
A user on Discord suggested it may simply be an issue with all USB C connectors. He used the PoE connection for power and said it was bulletproof. I bought a PoE+ Injector and tried that instead. I’m on day 2 and have not had a single disconnect. Not one. Keeping my fingers crossed because it’s worked in the past for a while then crapped out but I’m hoping the solution for disconnect issues with the R3 Dock is using PoE.
So the Keep WiFi Connected setting DEFINITELY helped and hoping they can figure that out for the R3 (which I’m getting next week). But another contributor to the problem could very well be power.
Again, no clue if it’s just my setup but figured this might help someone else out.
Three days in using the PoE so jury is still out considering it’s worked before only to crap out later. But this is the first time since owning the remote that it’s been 100% bulletproof. Every single time I pick it up, it just works. Every time!!
Never realized how accustomed I’d gotten to not knowing if it would be connected or not when using it the first time of the day or anytime it’s been in standby on the couch.
It is simply awesome!! Hope it stays like this and the R3 is equally, if not more, bulletproof.
PoE for 2 weeks and it solved the “Not connected to dock” situation. Still have the “integration unavailable” every now and then.
I wonder what’s going on with USB-C charging. I did notice that the dock included a electromagnetic interference supressor (that I had on my USB-C cable), so there might be more to this issue.
I hope the dev team doesn’t take this is a bad way, but based on my experience from the last few weeks I’ve created a “few” feature requests on the github project. I’m adding them here for reference:
I just gave this a try, and unfortunately it doesn’t seem any faster than the network integration. Curious to see if it changes anything about the coming back from sleep issues. For the fast-fast-forward I will keep the home assistant script.
This was incorrect, I meant integrations. EG: when the remote is coming back from sleep some buttons already work (the ones dependent on IR or Bluetooth for example) and some don’t (the ones related to integrations like androidtv)
What about having the same for non-IR requests ? Stop waiting for the command to give the integration an OK and give the user to repeat faster.
For non-IR delay and long depend on the integration. Some functions for LONG in Android or BlueTooth have LONG in the name or a special function like Context Menu which needs a long press. With IP you cannot define an duration only a Flag LONG for the command.
No clue if it’s related but I saw your comment on the suppressor that comes with every power cord. I have never had to use one in the US for any electronic device I have ever purchased. Frankly, had no idea what their purpose was and figured it must be some non-US weird electricity thing (yes I’m a dumb American).
In any case, I dug out all of those suppressor clamps that came with the docks and put one on each Dock powered by USB and connected via WiFi.
Only been a few days but every unit seems to stay connected consistently now. Seriously, docks that would randomly go offline ALL THE TIME and require me to either switch from WiFi to Ethernet or unplug/reset, just stay online and show as connected in the configurator.
So, for the other US folks that have never had to use one of those electromagnetic suppressor clamps, give it a try if you’re having issues with power from USB C.
It is a sheath wave filter to avoid disturbing signal on a cable. I was several times in the US and saw your electrical installations and be pretty sure that you have them also? It is not a must but does no harm.
