The Harmony/Sofabaton argument

@Sawtaytoes I have no wifi connect/disconnect issues on either my R2 or my R3. As @kennymc.c has suggested it’s something specific to your setup. Is your router on the latest firmware? Have you tried switching WiFI channels for your 5Ghz network?

@Hoffi Battery life is an issue … more with the R2 than the R3 in my experience. I don’t need it to go a week, but I do want it to last a good day of weekend sports viewing and that’s not guaranteed. More than valid criticism.

If your battery life of R3 ist better than R2 it is funny. I made several test and my R2 eats around 6%/h whereas the R3 almost 12%/h. And I am not alone with this experience.

Ralf

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I think I might just have a bad battery … UC promised user replaceable, but have disappeared all the instructions on how to do it. I have a broken R2 (the cracked screen issue) that I would harvest the battery from, but can’t figure out how to remove it from the remote (I know how to open the remote)).

Paying $100 for return shipping to UC to replace a battery isn’t worth it just like it isn’t worth it to repair the screen (the R2 is essentially a disposable device between the damage prone screen and the cost of any repair with shipping).

Hi ALL,

My daily remote is the R2 and I have the R3 in reserve in case R2 dies. Other than occasionally needing to make a change for some reason or other, the R2 is working very well for me. I just wanted to add a comment on the Sofabaton and its interface to Home Assistant.

My R2 (or R3) interfaces to HA and it allows me to do MANY more operations than the Harmony Elite (which was my remote before the R2). However the learning curve, alt least for me, was very steep. I did ultimately learned enough to get the HA operations to work through R2.

One of the options in the newer Sofabaton is for it to interface into HA. I just watched a video on how to do that end I think it way more complicated than how R2 interfaces into HA. Sofabaton uses MQTT to interface to HA and although that is a very powerful interface it is also VERY confusing, again at least to me. With MQTT you have to set up a broker in HA to receive messages from devices, including Sofabaton, and it all seems much more involved than the interface from R2 to HA.

Anyway, just my 2 cents!

Gerry

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MQTT is not really a step forward. The other approach is to use the emulated roku integration on HA and the Sofabaton thinks it’s connecting to a Roku. It’s all half-baked … if the remote has the hardware to speak to an IP integration, then it shouldn’t require a broker (whether it’s MQTT or emulated roku).

Sofabaton has a promising product that certainly fills part of the void left by Harmony. My epxerience with it (X1S) was not positive given it’s inability to properly control devices running on the X1 platform (which is a user-base in the millions), that there is no web interface so you have to use the app, that you cannot import hex codes for IR devices you can only learn (or use devices learned by others), and awful ergonomics (an issue that seems much improved with the X2).

It’s not a Harmony replacement because it’s not as good a product and it offers nothing that a Harmony can’t do, although the X2 does seem to have better ergonomics than any of Harmony hub remotes,

Sofabaton has potential, and an X2S or X3 with true two-way IP, a web interface, and hex support could be a category killer.

I don’t believe you, so maybe we’re not talking about the same thing.

I’m talking about when you wake up the remote and click stuff and nothing happens. Not just for 2 seconds, but for quite some time; minutes.

I also noticed Home Assistant constantly showing the device state as “unavailable” meaning it can’t talk to the device for a time. But when I checked, the only times those happen are for 1 minute. I’m not sure if that’s a reliable measure as it doesn’t seem to show “unavailable” when the device isn’t working.

  • I don’t notice disconnect issues like this from other devices.
  • The Harmony Hub stays connected to the same AP and rarely has any issues.
  • The Harmony Hub is on 2.4GHz.
  • That access point only has 4 devices on 5GHz, one is the Echo Dot and another is a Google Play Mini. Everything else is on Ethernet.
  • My remote is on 5GHz and the access point is 4-9’ away depending on where I sit on the couch. The Harmony Hub is like 2’ away from the AP though.
  • I have 8 access points in my house and 150 Wi-Fi devices. Most are on 2.4GHz; not 5GHz like the remote.
  • Yes, I’ve tried different channels, but that shouldn’t matter when there’s relatively little interference on 5GHz:

As you can see here, the device disconnects quite frequently and for quite a long time:

This list is very long. So long I could only include a small portion, 82 times it did a disconnect-reconnect in 10 hours!

Compare that to my Harmony Hubs (both of them):

As you can see, the Harmony Hubs rarely disconnect, and it’s very short: less than 1 min. This data is from both hubs too. It’s 9 times in the same 10 hour period for both COMBINED!

The important thing is I don’t notice these small connectivity issues with Harmony. Like I said, it’s rare if I do because they’re so infrequent and so short. That’s what matters the most: whether I notice or not.

It’s possible you don’t have this connectivity issue, but I find that extremely hard to believe.

I’m pretty sure my other remote (of 3) was doing this as well last year, but I haven’t finished setting up my other ones to check again atm.

Its interesting. I just looked at my logs (my remote is also on the 5GHz chhannel and I use Unifi). For me the R3 last disconnected from WiFi 5 days ago when I last rebooted it.

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And you are sure you have the keep WiFi connected in standby setting enabled? Keep in mind that integrations still have to reconnect with this as the remote can’t keep all integrations running in standby. It only saves the time the remote would need to get to reconnect to the network like getting its ip from the router.

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@Sawtaytoes people are trying to help you and your response is “I don’t believe you” and “I find it extremely hard to be true”

Sorry, but I’m done helping you and I don’t appreciate the tone or the arrogance.

Enjoy your Harmony.

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Thanks for checking that! Maybe it’s a bad remote then :confused:. I’ll have to try another 'n see. I thought my stuff matched how everyone else is also noticing these disconnects, but maybe it’s a small subset.

I think that could be it. Maybe my IP control integrations are the problem.

The ones that I’m using primarily are the official ones: “Android TV” and “Marantz-Denon”.

The LG TV one only needs to work when turning the system on or off, and that’s the only 3rd party one.

Thanks for


I doubt its your IP integrations that are the problem. Hopefully the keep WiFi connected in standby fixes your issue. I dont use the Android TV integration but I do use the LG and Denon plus a bunch more and have no problem with these. The keep WiFI connected in standby obviously uses a bit more battery but for me I found turning off Bluetooth (as I don’t use it for any of the devices I’m controlling) pretty much offset that battery drain.

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There might be some confusion here. I took screenshots of my current settings. I didn’t change any.

And tonight, the disconnect occurred again while watching a movie.

Sadly, I use Bluetooth for Windows. If I could IP control it, I’d turn that off too, but it requires special software, and Bluetooth does not.

Are the people not having Wi-Fi issues using Bluetooth?

Why should anybody have Wi-Fi problems when using Bluetooth? 2.4 GHz use both but they do not interfere.

Ralf

Does your remote always stay in the same room? If it does, try locking it to the nearest AP. Also disable Active WiFi scanning if you have that on. I also use fixed IP for both dock and remote. I never have disconnects outside of restarts

It doesn’t leave the room. UniFi added a setting to lock a device to a specific AP; although, I’m hesitant to do it. It’s worth a try though.

I turned off Active WiFi scanning twice, and both times, the remote lost Wi-Fi and couldn’t connect again. I don’t really understand that setting.

Lock to access point should be safe if the remote is always in the same room. It just won’t roam to another AP if it goes out of range. Maybe Active WiFi scanning should be used with a fixed IP

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Please let us know how that goes. I have the same dumb disconnects all the time. Between the remote and docks, and also to devices that are controlled via IP. I reached out to support, but they basically shrugged their shoulders and gave up. While this might be network-related and not an issue with the remote, they should have made the remote resilient enough to fix any lost connections.

I’m considering a move to UniFi anyway, so it would be great if that resolves the issue.

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I haven’t noticed any changes in my usage, but who knows. My family is using the remote now, not just me, and they had an issue once trying to turn it off.

You can see it’s locked here:

Only one disconnect showing this time:

But I don’t know if these disconnects correlate with when I can’t use the remote. I’ll have to watch something tonight 'n see. The remote was sitting in the dock most of the day.

It’s been 20 min, and I’ve still been unable to pause this movie:


I had to break out Home Assistant to pause it but there’s no control in the entity to go back 10 sec (or 5 min in my case).