Hello. I’m not sure how to approach this. I have Home Assistant, and I’ve integrated the blinds into it. Let me explain what I mean. I have four blinds in my living room. I’d like to create two operation schemes. 1. I’d like to be able to close and open all four blinds with Remote 3 by pressing a single button. 2. I’d like Remote 3 to automatically close all four blinds when I turn on Activities Home Cinema, and open them when I turn it off. How do I go about this? I’ve already integrated the Home Assistant into Remote 3, and the blinds I want to control are visible. Is there a way to create a device group that can be activated with a single button?
Just create a macro.
If it were me, I’d write a script in home assistant that opens all four blinds and one that closes all four blinds. You can share the script with the remote through the unfolded circle integration in home assistant. You can then call this script from a button on the remote.
I would then create an automation that uses the activity state as the trigger in home assistant with the actions resulting in the script being called.
Not necessarily the best way but that’s what I would do.
For your button, you could create a group in HA for your blinds so it will have a state and they will all act as one entity. I’m not sure if you can pass a group into UC, but you could try. And if it doesn’t like that you could throw a template switch on top of it and then use that.
For your close-only activity a script might be your best bet, as suggested by @fattykidd.
I admit I’m not an expert in HA. I installed HA for two reasons.
1. I needed a trigger that would switch my TV to the appropriate HDMI input when it’s turned on. (Unfortunately, my Philips OLED TV doesn’t have any hidden code that triggers switching to the appropriate HDMI.) HA, through debugging and a dedicated script, switched the TV to the appropriate HDMI. I initially used this method, but it often failed. I found an option in the TV that, after turning on the TV, leaves it in the same position it was in before turning it off. Generally, I always use HDMI 2 on the TV and it stays there, so there’s no problem there.
2. Controlling the blinds when turning on my home theater system. I set up automation so that when my Denon receiver switches to the Blu-ray input, the HA automatically closes the blinds. When the Denon switches from the Blu-ray HDMI input to another one or is turned off, the blinds open. I also added a feature that prevents the blinds from opening after 9 p.m., as they all close until morning. Unfortunately, I often had communication problems between the Denon and the HA, and it stopped working.
This led me to look for alternatives and considered a solution via Remote 3.
ADB integration has the possibility, 2 indeed, to switch HDMI inputs. It works perfect for my OLED 806.
Ralf
I have a Philips OLED 818. Tell me, how do you turn on your TV? Did you connect it via integration as an Android TV? I’m having trouble turning on the TV via integration. After turning off the TV, I am unable to turn it on again. It loses connection and can’t reconnect. I haven’t played around with ADB on Remote 3 yet. Could this be the issue?
PS. How does the IR signal sent from the DOCK work? Does it work better than the remote control? My Pionner power amplifier often doesn’t respond to being turned on or off from the Remote 3. Which cable transmitter is used to send the signal? The large round one or the small purple pill? I tried changing the Infrared output device option from the Remote 3 to the DOCK in Entities, but to no avail. I also disabled the IR from the Remote 3 in the developer settings, but that didn’t help either.
When you connect the Philips to power, I use a smart plug, it needs around 6 minutes to boot after that it is reachable throgh WiFi and the integration. Philips has a power off timer which means after X hours it goes to sleep and is disconnected from WiFi. The time can be set up to 4 hours but if you set it to 0 is does not automatically goes sleeping.
I use the ADB integration to switch inputs HDMI1..4 and between ARC and TV speaker.
I do not really use the IR extender. The large one should be more powerfull than the small one. Be aware that you must disconnect the dock from power before you connect the extender. If everything worked you should see in the dock screen of the configurator which extender is connected to which port.
Ralf
Do you know how it works when the Philips is connected via Ethernet cable? Does it listen constantly there, or does it disconnect? I don’t know if I understood correctly, but if I have to wait 6 minutes for the TV to boot up, thank you very much, but I won’t use it.
6 minutes only when it was disconnected from power or was sleeping. I could disable the power off timer, actually sleeping, in the settings of my TV. Sorry no experience with Ethernet. I think you can power on with WOL but the 6 minutes might still needed.
Ralf
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I have another question because I don’t want to start a new thread, and maybe this is a one-stop shop. How does Google Assistant work on this remote? I have an Android TV device. I’ve set the remote to support Android TV integration. I also assigned a button on Remote 3 to start Google Assistant. Unfortunately, I’m getting an error. I also noticed there’s a button that signals the end of Google Assistant, but I don’t know why it’s included. How do I launch Google Assistant on this remote?
Press voice button and keep it pressed. When the remote shows that you should speak and the ask assistant something and when ready release button.
Have you enabled mic in the settings?
Ralf
Everything’s fine now with the voice assistant. I have one more question. I’ve noticed that when I turn on an activity on the Remote 3 and it’s not in use, the screen lights up constantly with the active mode on. The screen doesn’t go into sleep mode. Is this normal, or do I have something set incorrectly? This is definitely draining the batteries quickly.
I believe this is a known issue with Wake On LAN packets with Keep WiFi connected in standby being set on.