IR configuration

Hi Lutz,

thank you for your time spending on a Sunday evening.

As I described above, for custom buttons (and remotes) it doesn’t matter what is configured in the web configurator. In my setup this blast is always going through the dock front buttom (also with the IR extender attached and configured to the dock). If I use a „generalized“ remote from the web configurator for my EPSON Proj. for example, you can’t set the blast for each button but also the blast is using all IR (include IR Extender) are available.

Thanks for making Remote 2 just more awesome!

Hi @D2B

I’ve created an issue for this: [bug] Custom remote IR codes always go to dock bottom · Issue #99 · unfoldedcircle/feature-and-bug-tracker · GitHub so we can track it.
I hope I described it correctly, otherwise feel free to add additional info or context.

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I have also noticed that the IR diodes are very weak. I currently use a Harmony Hub that is at the same height as the devices I want to control and it works. With the dock, I can move a maximum of 3-4 m in direct line of sight from the device to be controlled to get an adequate hit rate. However, this is not a feasible solution for me.

With reference to the instructions or this support article, the thing about “must be in direct line of sight” is also not apparent.

Regarding the built-in IR diodes, where is the upper one(s) located?

The upper IR diode is located in the recess where the remote control is inserted. So it cannot be used when the remote control is charging.

Same problem for me. I´m also using a Harmony Hub without any problems for my IR devices. And I also have a Sofabaton X1 hub without any IR transmission problems.

So, it´s very disappointing that the RM2 dock is so extremly weak for IR transmission and I really hope to find a usable solution for that. Otherwise RM2 will be nearly useless for my system setting.

What about possible high effective IR blasters (similar to the IR blasters in the Harmony Hub) which can be connect via cable to the dock IR jack connectors?

It is absolutely frustrating how weak the built-in IR diodes are and also the signal that goes via the jack plug is far too weak. How did you test this? Was the test setup in a broom closet? Sorry, but I have to let out my frustration right now. How can it be that nine diodes are weaker than the original remote at the same distance. So the dock is just an overpriced charging cradle. And it can’t be the point of the dock to be as close as possible to the devices, but I would like to have it where I would also put my remote control and that is certainly not by the devices to be controlled. The fact that the diode in the remote control can be used at some point doesn’t solve the problem either, because I want to use the dock as a replacement for a Harmony Hub, for example.

I am afraid we need a fix for the dock IR weakness. Not only the signal is weak, but it also seems to be noised.
I tested with an IRTrans receiver which logs IR commands received and decoded.

  • When sending Microsoft MCE commands from my Neeo, my old Nevo S70 or another IRTrans device, they are perfectly decoded, even at 7-8 m from the receiver.
  • When sending the same command from the YIO2, placing the dock at 1 m in front of the receiver, I just get messy reception and decoding. Sometimes I get the expected command twice, sometimes I get uninterpreted IR sequences, sometimes I get the expected command + uninterpreted IR noise… but I never receive the clean expected command.

This makes the YIO2 remote totally useless at this point.

If IR is not usable, we need a way to “transmit” the commands from the remote (and the events such as navigation) over IP (MQTT sending JSON messages would be a must) so we can interface with our working IRTrans devices, USB-UIRT, Neeo brain or any home automation system that will forward these commands to alternative but working IR emitters.

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I can’t confirm the mentioned IR issue with my dock. I have no problems reaching devices in a 3m radius. The signal is also strong enough to reach devices around edges via reflexion.
So maybe some docks just have faulty ir diodes?

In my case the dock works properly - but there is no signal from the remote going out. as well i can‘t change output device to „remote“ in the configuration page (Panasonic bluray).
Also the IR manual learning doesn‘t work…

Yes this is known. It’s a Kickstarter project. Check out the roadmap:

ClickMe

and
Bugtracker

I currently have a Hamony Hub, which is at the same height (i.e. in line, i.e. there is no direct line of sight) as the devices to be controlled and everything works.

The dock is in direct line of sight about 4-5 m away and nothing works.

VID_20231021_182436 VID_20231021_182547 Unbenanntes-Video-Mit-Clipchamp

Order:
Normal remote control
Dock (upside down, otherwise it would be even harder to see the LED)
Harmony Hub

Can confirm that. I have the same issue. What I didn’t actually test is if there is an difference between Pronto or Hex code sending?

Also started a few days ago to really work with the remote and I cannot get IR to work at all. The devices are below 1.5 meters away, direct line of sight and the devices do not respond.

No problem w/ Logitech Harmony, Sofabaton X1 or Sofabaton X1s :-(.

Is there any solution to improve the signal strenght yet?

Use Home Assistant or buy/ build your own IR blaster.

Adding Home Assistant to the chain of command introduces lag and another point of failure.

Yes, indeed. Suggestions?

Personally, I’m waiting for reliable IP and Bluetooth integrations. But, it could be a long wait.

I’ve tried the Home Assistant route, which required writing dozens of scripts. It was unsatisfactory due to the lag and lack of keypress repeats (volume control, scrolling etc).

In the meantime, I’m still using my Harmony Elite as the family are au fait with it. However, it is starting to show its age and the remote keeps wanting to re-pair to the hub. It’s probably on the way out…

I’m also using a Sofabaton X1. This works really well as it has a very strong IR blaster in the hub. I’ve also created a IR receiver using a ESP32 communicating to Home Assistant via ESPHome. This addition allows me to control all my lights and IOT devices through the Activities and Device controls in the X1. As soon as I’m sure it’s family friendly, I’ll retire the Harmony and use it whilst waiting for the R2 to mature.

1.5m with direct line of sight without an angle should be possible even with the UC dock. There are some ir code formats that are currently not supported. I guess this could be the problem. here. It was mentioned by a developer that they plan to support raw ir codes in the future so it doesn’t matter what format the codes are in.
Alternatively, there is also a DIY dock for the Remote Two based on an ESP32: GitHub - petchmakes/ESP32-IRBlaster-UCR2: An ESP32 IR blaster implementing the UCR2 dock websocket API.

1.5m won’t cut it for me as I’d have to trail wires to the coffee table which will not be tolerated by the wife.

I need it to be at the back of the room next to our sofa. 3m range would probably be safe.

The hub of my Sofabaton X1 is there and works brilliantly.

Without adequate IR coverage, or better yet - IP and Bluetooth integrations, the R2 is useless in my household.

I won’t give up on it, though. I really want it to be my daily driver.

This looks interesting. Could solve my blasting to projector issue (in a simpler way than currently). I am just recently learning about the ESP32 microcontrollers. I guess that’s why the UC dock is displayed as “ESP32” on my router.

The schematic is as simple as can be, but it’s the code that makes it work. The way the parallel combination of 5 IR LED’s is drawn is pretty bizarre though (I had to trace each individual path to verify that’s what it is). I guess it’s a function of the drawing program used. My main concern would be it apparently won’t sync with UC firmware updates. That could probably be addressed in the code, but not by me with my current knowledge.

But if all it takes to drive 5-SFH4546 IR LED’s in parallel is a common NPN junction transistor with no limiting resistor, operating at 5V, I may try just building something to plug into the UC dock (without having to modify its innards) first.